Wrapped up in an abundance of mink, beaver skin and softest suede, or swathed in voile, embroidery and gold, next season's man is wearing his girlfriend's favourite clothes with dash and panache. And, judging by the peroxide flicks and white blond extensions of last week's shows in Milan, he'll be stealing her hairdresser, too. Even male classics such as ties, double-breasted jackets and tuxedos - making a welcome reappearance - were soaked in seduction as the models slithered and sashayed their way down the catwalk. Stefano Gabbana, of the design duo Dolce and Gabbana, spoke of a 'turning point': "in time men will have the confidence to break from type without losing any of their masculinity - he says - Daring - picking and mixing." Time will tell.

Right now next season's male seems to have lost all of his traditional manliness in a flurry of fur and gold while female fashion appears to be verging on the androgynous as pinstripes, ties, braces and laced-up shoes are must-haves for this spring and summer. Military style is back in fashion for both sexes.

Albeit chic and tailored at Jil Sander or glammed up at John Richmond where T-shirts are adorned with rhinestone hammer and sickles. Gone is the era of the 'macho'. This year's “über-model” is more like a romantic public school boy or dandy. Donatella Versace describes her male muse as a Wildean “golden lord”, who's hyper-rich, young and sexy, a mover in the new economy.

Our 'lord' chooses warm chocolate tones in the evening, champagne by day, beige overcoats with a fresh flower in the buttonhole. And when he wants to run wild and free, like Fendi's "easy rider" or Roberto Cavalli's magnificent centaur, he does so with class (and a healthy bank balance) in cashmere, silk and leather, riding a spectacular jewel-encrusted, fur-covered Ducati motorbike.

Before we go a word on the locations chosen for the season's shows. The ItaliaPlease Oscar for the Most Imaginative Location is shared by Etro (who showed in a supermarket at closing time) and New York Industrie (who chose a huge warehouse decked out with sixty washing machines - all in operation).